DEVICE CONNECTOR: Provides a variety of DI solutions with its inch device connector and detachable AC power cord for live sound recording applications. It allows you to easily connect keyboards, guitars & outboard signal processors
PROVIDES CLEAN AUDIO: Useful for connecting unbalanced signals from sources submixers, effects processors & keyboards to a main PA or recording mixer. This impedance transformer also has buzz & hum cancellation ability
EASILY CONNECTS INSTRUMENTS: Getting the signal of a musical instrument to the PA system is easier with this direct box. Just connect the electric bass, guitar, keyboard or other processors to the ground lift adapter & enjoy pure & clean audio
VERSATILE DIRECT BOX: Aside from music instruments, the DI unit can also be connected to the line output of a boom box or consumer stereo system if you want to sample old records. The hum eliminator is used for connecting unbalanced devices as well
DURABLE MATERIAL: Made of all steel chassis, this direct injection box is guaranteed to last for a long period of time. Aside from its heavy duty construction, it is also a convenient tool for musicians as it can power up to 10 effects pedals
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Be awareI've read a lot of reviews on this before buying it and it was 50/50. Now my honest review on this product, the one I received. I only gave it 3 stars because the switches are a bit cheesy. At the very touch will make static where I have to find the sweet spot. Although, the switches do work. It's a set it and forget it type of switching. The ground lift does work. The cable sockets are plastic and I can see how there would be a problem if someone was to set up and break down a lot. This unit is stationary in my home studio where again, I set it and forget it. This is not made for the road. I bought the dual because I run my rig in stereo. Both sides work with the same kinda sensitive att. Switch issues. I found if the att. Is set to 0 there is a slight distortion to my signal. If I bump it to 20, I have to turn my levels up to hear. to remedy this problem, I keep the att. At 0 and work either the volume knob on my guitar or volume pedal. If you get lucky and get 1 that works like me (I've read some horror stories) you have to baby it. It is not road worthy but not bad for a stationary device if you set it and forget it.3For those who insist on a "DI" boxPROS:- Built like a tank- Transforms the impedance- Incredibly cheapCONS:- For some reason the print messed up on the attenuation switch. Just flip it until you find what you need- Build quality is what it isI've got 4 of these on hand along with a handful of XLR to 1/4" adapters as well. With that being said, be aware that this is the primary function of this "DI" box; to transform the connection. Sorry for the air quotes, but I run into folks insisting that they must have a "DI" box when they play at our place. 90% of the time they simply need an impedance transformer for their send to the XLR input snake. The other 10% typically needs something I don't regularly provide, like a pre-amp beyond phantom power.Yes, it has handy 2 level attenuation option and ground lift which have their place. Other than that, it does what it does and does it well. The print on the box is rather inconsistent as if the screen kept shifting as it was being applied. The ground lift push/pull switches are mounted perfectly and others crooked, but they still work.Solid build that looks like my first electronic project kit build from Radio Shack when I was a kid, but the dang thing works, Takes a beating and keeps on going. Completely worth the affordable price point.4AVOID THIS PRODUCT. BOTH channel were defective out of the box due to failure of the attenuation switches to stay in position.What a piece of junk! As mentioned in other similar reviews, this unit is defective right out of the box due to failure of the attenuation switches to stay in position. It's hard to believe that Pyle continues to sell a product with such high failure rate right out of the box. Not one but BOTH channel were defective right out of the box. No sound would pass through until someone happened to wiggle the attenuation switches. We discovered that if one held the switch in position manually or with electrical tape the box would work, but there was no switch position that worked otherwise, and this was both switches on both channels! Clearly not a coincidence but most likely severely inferior components AVOID THIS PRODUCT.1Attenuator switch very noisyThis DI box would be just one star if it weren't for the cheap price. At 0 dB attenuation it is ok. Other attenuation settings are very, very noisy, to the point of being completely unusable. Debating if I should return this, or as other reviewers have done, take it apart and solder jumpers across the attenuator switch. In other words, make it a fixed 0 dB setting with no switch.XLR connectors don't fit well either...had to try a couple of cables to find one that would fit. The other cable might have fit, but I did not want to jam it in with too much force and risk damage to the XLR connector.2Not ideal, not to be trusted - barely worksI'm only giving this one star because it sort of works with extra effort, and it was shipped overnight which met my schedule. The signal schematic is wrong on the cover. It's borderline return merchandise - if you are a musician or sound engineer, I highly advise a Jensen transformer based DI Radial Engineering R8001010JDI Single-Channel Passive Direct Box with Jensen Transformer, but note it will cost 10x the price because it isn't product of china. Please bear in mind, this worked ONLY because my use is to interface a telephone system to professional sound reinforcement & paging - the telephone adapter has line out, paging is XLR in. Yes, construction quality is bad - but in my use it will be setup once, then screwed to a piece of plywood in a telephone room never to see the light of day. As for the schematic, it clearly shows bridged TS jacks for input / PARPOUT (loop through parallel) with a single line from TIP to the transformer network, and I'd assume ground return from the Shield, which is attached to ground in the cover sketch. Well, NO THATS WRONG - they are actually TRS jacks which assume a balanced input on tip & ring to the transformer - not an instrument (TS) cable. I bought my cables (TS) per the diagram and discovered they don't work with this box. The ring isn't drawn on the TRS side, but the XLR has 3 pins drawn on the schematic. Guy drew photograph no English speek user instruction pink hummingbird feel good be lucky. That explains it. Normally, a DI should impedance match - Hi-Z in (~50K ohm input impedance) - low-Z (600 ohm) out on XLR. Yea, right - the TRS input is 741 ohms tip to ring instead of 50K ohms, so it's not a true Hi-Z input - its Low-Z, and not impedance matched therefore inefficient. There is a -20 and -40 dB pad, just in case you have any signal left over from your hi-z drive on the low-z 1/4" TRS jack. I ended up having to use an XLR mic input after going through this DI box because the Hi-Z phone interface [line level] couldn't drive the low-z transformer primary coil with 0dB pad selected. If you manage to get the stripped screw threads out and open the box, the transformers are 600:600 +/- 20% - which at this pricepoint is to be expected. This only works because my application is strictly voice audio from a low-fi telephone line going to a 70v line paging amplifier which (fortunately) had a mic input for the tiny signal that made it through this DI box. For the price - it did the job - barely. I would never use this for professional recording. I wouldn't use it for amateur recording either. And, yes, I left a note for the next guy "China In Made - Caution you use schematic be wrong wrote - pink hummingbird died unhappy -18dB". That's at least as clear as the manual.1Horrible quality control and construction, they do not work as shipped.We ordered 7 of these. They are really in-expensive so I certainly was not expecting great quality components or construction. I was expecting however that they would be nominally functional. They are not. Every unit had a seriously intermittant attenuation switch. So the audio pops in and out, badly. All 7 of them on both channels. So this was certainly not a fluke. This flaw rendered them completely unusable for any purpose (perhaps door stop). I had to remedy the situation by using a soldering iron and shorting out the attenuation switch on the circuit board. This allows them to operate regardless of the intermittent switch. Basically the switches are all bad!. Also the casings are steel and some of them are bent. The screws were stripped when the boxes were built. So the boxes are not taped for the screw thread, I think that they just jam the screws in and screw them in like self tapping screws (which they aren't so basically the screws and the cases just get stripped and the screws fall out. So for just about everyone they are unusable, you can go in there and modify them (eliminating the attenuation switch and get them to work, if you understand the circuit and are decent with a soldering iron. However most all (including me) would find this unacceptable.1You get what you pay for.Pyle has a knack for making stuff that is ridiculously affordable, and this is no exception. You can't build one of these for $9 US.Unfortunately, the sample I received had a defective attenuation switch. It works fine otherwise. Due to the price point, it made no sense to file a warranty claim and ship it back; it was better to open the unit up and use a blob of solder to bypass the defective switch, so that it always operates with no attenuation.Defective switch bypassed, the unit works fine, especially for an active bass signal.I doubt that this defect is super-common, but the fact that it made it out the door at all implies that there is little attention paid to quality control, so I have to down-rate the product a bit. For those who are comfortable opening one up, or those who have the time to do the (rare) return, this product is fine. For those in a hurry to deploy a working product a couple days after placing the order, I can't really recommend it.2Good DI, quick and easy attenuate switch fix.Works very nicely as a passive DI. We use both single and double models. My most recent purchase exhibited the flaky attenuator switch reported by others. I disassembled the DI (4 screws) and soldered the contacts in the 0dB position as that is all I have ever needed. That works perfectly and took about 5 minutes.I was puzzled that older boxes I had worked perfectly but seemed identical. After soldering the contacts I looked at the DI construction. What I found was that the end of the circuit board with the attenuation switch is held by the 1/4" jacks that are also soldered to it. The nuts holding the jacks to the case appear to have been abruptly and excessively tightened. That twisted the circuit board and stressed the legs of the attenuation switch that are soldered to it. That in turn likely distorted the contacts in the switch making the switch erratic. Loosening the nuts allowed the circuit boards to straighten out and relieved stress on the switch legs. Gently re-tightening the nuts held the circuit board in place without twisting.I had already soldered the 0dB connection so cannot be sure that straightening the circuit board to relieve stress on the switch solved the erratic attenuation switch problem. But, if you get a box with a flaky switch it is easy to do from the outside and only takes a few seconds. When loosening the nuts watch the switch, if the circuit board is twisted the position of the switch in the hole in the case will change as the circuit board straightens. Re-tighten the nuts gently until both are firm then add enough torque to lock them up so they do not loosen. Watch the switch position in the hole in the case to be sure it does not shift when you re-tighten the nuts. If it moves that would indicate the circuit board has again twisted.These inexpensive DI Boxes have worked perfectly for us over more than 100 gigs on guitar, bass and pedal steel. Getting instruments simply and inexpensively into an XLR snake reduces stage clutter, noise and signal loss from long instrument cable runs. It would be a 5 star if I had not had to fiddle with the attenuate switch.4Stay away, unless you are just looking for a paperweight.Pyle-Pro must have the absolute worst quality control of any company I have ever heard of, I honestly don't understand how they can stay in business after my experience with their DI boxes. I bought a single and a duel DI box just for home use where i figured they would just be sitting there and wouldn't really be moved around a lot, so cheap should be fine right? Well, that might be the case if they worked. On the single DI box, nothing worked at all, didn't matter what attenuation level I put it on, or whether it was grounded or not, the only thing that was transmitted through the box was a ton of noise. On the dual box, one of the to DI's was just like the single, nothing worked at all, but it did output a ton of noise on all settings, the other side of the dual box did kind of work, you could wiggle the attenuation switch around a bit and get it to output a noisy signal at all attenuation settings, but it was fickle at best. Well I thought, maybe I just got unlucky, so I'll exchange them for new ones to see if I can get a working one.The new DI boxes arrived, I pulled them out, and found once again that none of them worked. The single box did work on the 0dB attenuation setting, but once again the output was quite noisy, neither the -20 or -40 dB attenuation levels worked at all, there was no signal transfered at all, just a lot of noise. On the second dual box that I received, nothing worked on either of them with the exception of the -20dB attenuation one one of the two DIs, and only if you jiggled the switch around a bit until you heard the signal break in and out, and sometimes you could get it to stay.I'm going to have to say that if they can't get a single DI box (not a very complex piece of electronics) to work properly out of the 6 that I went through, there is no way that I would ever trust any of their products for even just home use. In this case, you don't even get what you pay for, you just get a paperweight.1Great PASSIVE Direct Box - Know what that means before you get it.So this is a good product for a decent price if you know what it is you're getting. What this is, is a passive direct box with nothing but a transformer to match impiedance between XLR balanced and 1/4" unbalanced. As such a few things to keep in mind are that this is not an amplifier, it has no active powered electronics inside. Also there is some inherent loss in any transformer, so the signal coming out may not be quite as strong as the signal going in. If you're looking for a lossless direct box with low impiedance, then you will want an active direct box with operational amplifiers and powered circuits. This is not on of those. But having said that, it does a fairly good job and is built like a brick ####-house. It has some serious weight to it, and if it fails as a proper direct box for you it can certainly be used as a theft deterrent device. Seriously though, good little unit. Since there is no active electronics there is little to no chance of inducing extra noise or hum. It does have some attenuation resistors (meaning it can make loud things quieter) for if you are feeding something with higher volume like a speaker output into something that's expecting lower volume like a microphone input. It also has the ability to do ground lift, if you're getting ground loop hum. (And if you don't know what that is, simply nod and act impressed.)All in all I rated it with 4 stars because as long as you know what you're getting, its a great little unit. But just be sure you do some reading on the differences between active and passive direct boxes. Happy Hunting!4
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Premium Direct Injection Audio Box - Passive DI Unit Hum Eliminator w/ Input Attenuator to Connect Guitar & Bass - 1/4 Inch Impedance Transformer Connector to Balanced & Unbalanced XLR - Pyle PDC21,Bl